Laura Barnes
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  • Blog
  • Bio
  • Route 66- Arizona
  • B&W Portfolio
  • Color Portfolio
  • Cartoons
  • Poetry
  • Get in touch

Route 66-ARIZONA

Route 66- Arizona

This photo adventure traces Route 66 across the wide expanse of Arizona from East to West, from the borders of New Mexico to California, approximately 360 miles (580 km). This is a love story.

​All photos taken with my iPhone.


Get your motor running! 
Recommend : The Grapes of Wrath by John Steinbeck; The Blue Brothers Soundtrack; Their Greatest Hits by The Eagles
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Window Rock Navajo Tribal Park and Veteran's Memorial

Begin your journey in Arizona by visiting the Window Rock Navajo Tribal Park and Veteran's Memorial, about 30 minutes drive north of the I40. Not strictly a Route 66 stop, it should not be missed in my opinion, it is spectacular.  We spent about an hour quietly wandering through the Memorial Park, absorbing the history of the land and honoring the Navajo Code Talkers and Navajo Marines for their incomparable contributions for America in World War Two. It was as if the wind or ancestral voices were whispering to me through the open window in the rock, or may be I was transported to another spiritual plane via the window portal, either way it was a transcendent experience. The window casts a watchful eye over the Navajo Nation and all who pass by. It was so peaceful there.  

The statue of a lone Navajo Code Talker, crouching with a 32 pound radio transmitter on his back against the backdrop of the deep reds of Window Rock is an impressive sight. Having lived in the South Pacific as a child, I was eager to learn more about the Navajo Code Talkers and their ingenious bravery in that particular region of the world during the war. I recommend Code Talker: The First and Only Memoir By One of the Original Navajo Code talkers of WWII by Chester Nez. In addition to the statue, you can walk a circular path outlining the four cardinal directions of the Medicine Wheel; White for East, Blue for South, Yellow for West, and Black for North.  Say a little prayer or words of remembrance or gratitude as you walk. Nearby, you find yourself under the shadows of 16 sharply angled steel pillars with a sign memorializing the names of Navajo war veterans next to a beautiful sandstone fountain. This Park is a place for quiet reflection, solitude and healing that deserves time and respect. 

The Navajo Nation Museum and Library are adjacent to the Park.  Explore and learn more of the remarkable history of the Navajo (
Diné) and their proud people, culture, land and nation.
Window Rock Navajo Tribal Park and Veteran's Memorial, Window Rock, AZ 86515
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Petrified Forest National Park

What do Colin Creevey, Hermione Granger, Mrs. Norris the cat (all from the Harry Potter books) and fallen trees, stumps and logs of the Rainbow Forest have in common? They have all been petrified!

The petrification of a tree is not the result of some magic spell cast by an ancient Basilisk in a Chamber of Secrets, it is an entirely natural process producing a fossilized version of a tree. A stunningly preserved artifact. Brightly colored solid rings of deep reds, oranges, misty purples, deep chestnuts and creamy taupes characterize these giant fossils. Even the bark is fossilized. The transformation appears magical, but it is science that holds the key to this phenomenon. 

When a tree or even an entire forest is buried deep in sediment, protecting it from decay by exposure to oxygen, the groundwater that is absorbed into every little nook and cranny of the tree gets trapped. The water containing various different minerals such as silica, calcite, pyrite and others is absorbed at a cellular level, then over hundreds and thousands of years, the minerals crystallize, breaking down the organic material of the tree and replacing it in shape and form, preserving the fine details of the bark and woody structure of the tree. The crystals form a warm palette of rainbow colors.

225 million years ago, in this particular stretch of lowland Arizona, an ancient coniferous forest with trees over 9 feet in diameter and over 200 feet tall, was flooded by torrential rain storms, covering the area with mud and sediment. Nearby volcanoes in the Flagstaff area spewed volcanic ash with high mineral content, particularly silicates, all over the area, burying the huge trees. With this unique convergence of nature, the trees petrified.

This is the only National Park in Arizona through which Route 66 passes. 

Drive the circular route in the National Park, stopping along the way, through the Rainbow Forest and the Visitors Center to learn more and experience the colorful beauty of these fallen trees. There are lots of short hikes along the route that are worth the wander where you can touch the trees. There are many shops nearby where you can buy a small piece of polished petrified wood to help you remember the magic of the forest. 
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Painted Desert

The badlands of the Painted Desert feel like an otherworldly moonscape with empty, forgotten, vast seas surrounded by scoops of sculptured, striated vanilla topped mounds, flat topped mesas, itty bitty buttes and absolutely no sign of life. In the glare of the midday sun, the place looks ashen and inhospitable, but at sunrise or sunset the pigments in the layers absorb the light and take on rich, warm, reddish-brown hues, changing the character of the landscape. It is a great place to feel lost and surrender to  nature.
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Painted Desert Inn

In its elevated position on a flat topped mesa, surrounded by low growing junipers and other desert shrubs, the similarly flat topped Painted Desert Inn overlooks the vast Colorado Plateau and the Painted Desert for as far as the eye can see. It is made of wood, stone and earth toned stucco walls and was built in about 1920. You can't stay at the Inn anymore as it has been converted by the National Park Service into a museum. It is worth escaping from the relentless Arizona heat for a wander round the museum to enjoy the cool puebloan architecture, the pottery and petroglyphs, and I particularly enjoyed the retro dining room in the Inn which has an authentic Route 66 vibe. 
Painted Desert Inn, 1 Park Rd, Petrified Forest National Park, AZ 86028
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1932 Studebaker, Painted Desert

Plonked in the Painted Desert sits an abandoned 1932 Studebaker. This is an iconic stop and a must-see on Route 66. It is symbolic of the style of the stream of cars that traveled the route in a bygone era. You can see the wobbly wooden telegraph poles marking the original path of Route 66 which is now thoroughly overgrown and all but invisible. From the Studebaker, in your line of sight, parallel to the telegraph poles, is the I40. You can hear the juggernaut roar of 21st century traffic and see the tops of trucks hurrying to make their deliveries. And then you stop and hang out with the Studebaker for a while. You being to imagine a slower pace, a time when the journey was as important as the destination, and your breath slows as you feel the heat of the sun, touch the warm rusty metal and feel connected to the glory days of Route 66.
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Meteor Crater Natural Landmark

Arizona continues to astonish you with out-of-this-world experiences, this time with a massive crash site with a resulting Meteor Crater. A meteor hurtling from outer space collided with the Earth on this spot about 50,000 years ago with a force greater than 150 atomic bombs, creating the world's best preserved meteor crater. The devastation of the impact must have been felt for miles. What remains is a crater that is 550 feet deep and nearly a mile wide. You can view the crater from an indoor, air conditioned viewing area, or you can do a self guided short walk along the rim, or as we decided to do, take an extended tour along the rim that proved to be highly informative. The accompanying museum tells the history of the site that includes some interesting details about NASA astronauts and how they trained for the moon landing at the crater and some other space related memorabilia as well as a 4D movie theater. It is definitely worth the short detour to visit the crater.
Meteor Crater Natural Landmark, Interstate 40, Exit, 233, Winslow, AZ 86047
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Side Trip: Monument Valley Tribal Park

Words can hardly describe the timeless beauty of Monument Valley.

The land and the sky feel ancient and solid and real and wise. Eternal.

Visiting Monument Valley is a detour off Route 66, but it is such a beautiful part of Arizona and exhibits the ancient tribal history of America like no other place on the Route that you should definitely include it on your AZ itinerary if you possibly can. It's about 150 miles from the I40 in Flagstaff, about a two and half hour car journey. Just do it!

As it is on tribal land, it is relatively uncommercialized with the exception of Gouldings, originally a Trading Post but now a hotel, with a campsite, restaurant and museum. John Huston and John Wayne stayed there when making numerous cinematic films in the area.  I recommend taking a tour of the Park with a knowledgable Navajo guide to take you to the places off the beaten track that you would never find by yourself and to hear local stories that need to be passed from person to person rather than read from a book. Sample the local fry bread, take in the rock formations shaped like mittens, chimneys, sentinels and hogans, go horseback riding, buy local turquoise, silver and beaded jewelry, slip into a slower pace of life to enjoy every moment as you immerse yourself in this extraordinary culture and landscape.

Walk In Beauty
-A Traditional Navajo Prayer

Walk in beauty
With beauty before me, I walk
With beauty behind me, I walk
With beauty above me, I walk
With beauty around me, I walk
I walk in beauty.


Navajo historian Wally Brown teaches about living in harmony and how to Walk in Beauty.
Check it out here.
Monument Valley Tribal Park, U.S. 163 Scenic, Oljato-Monument Valley, AZ 84536
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Holbrook

Turn off the I40 and take in the definitively male ruggedness of Holbrook. Originally inhabited by Ancestral Puebloans, Navajo and Apache, and then later by men who worked with their hands and the land; craggy faced cattlemen, hard-as-nails railroad builders, more than a smattering of outlaws, and the tough lawmen trying to wrangle the lot of them.

Route 66 was aligned through Holbrook in 1926 with a smattering of Route 66 motels popping up, real gems, with Space Agey Googie architecture and signage, forecourts with murals, old cars and brightly painted buildings, they stand proud, posing for photos and inviting weary travelers to rest their heads for the night. The Wigwam Motel is of course the star of the main strip. I found Holbrook to be charming. The Pow Wow Trading Post sign and the Rainbow Rock Shop are town treasures. It's a great place to pick up a crystal or piece of petrified wood. 

The Navajo County Historical Museum, historically a courthouse, is in town and worth a visit. I enjoyed the schoolhouse exhibit where it had a sign showing rules for teachers at the turn of the century, including, " Women teachers who marry or engage in unseemly behaviors will be dismissed." As a teacher my whole professional life, I can honestly say I would not have lasted one unseemly minute in Holbrook!
Navajo County Historical Museum, 100 E Arizona St, Holbrook, AZ 86025
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Wigwam Motel, Holbrook

When you visit Arizona, you have to stay in a wigwam, right? Fifteen tall and imposing teepees made of concrete and steel with cleverly draped doorways to individual rooms, lie in a solemn semi circle around the main reception building at the Wigwam Motel. Each teepee is 21 feet wide at the base and 28 feet high. Outside every teepee poses a permanently parked colorful vintage car, sleek and classic, like a glamorous Hollywood movie star visiting the motel from a bygone era.  

As you enter the main reception building you are greeted by a huge piece of highly polished petrified wood, a true piece of art. It is mesmerizing with its colorful concentric circles, drawing you in to the lobby. There is a cosy seating area with rugs and comfy chairs settled around a fireplace, refreshments, a small shop and a ton of tourist information available so you can browse then sit and read at your leisure. In addition, there is a small museum in the back rooms that holds a marvelous collection of Indian artifacts, Route 66 collectibles and a gorgeous petrified wood collection that is totally worth a look.

The Wigwam Motel in Holbrook is a 'must stay' while traveling Route 66 in Arizona.
Wigwam Motel, 811 W Hopi Dr, Holbrook, AZ 86025
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Jack Rabbit Trading Post, Joseph City

A giant billboard beside the railroad tracks, vivid yellow paint, giant red lettering announcing HERE IT IS and the utterly iconic black silhouette of a slightly menacing jack rabbit, long ears stretching out behind him, head bent, looking ahead with an unwavering stare (reminiscent of Harley-Davidson riders on the Route) advertises your arrival at the Jack Rabbit Trading Post.

Jack Rabbit is so iconic it even made it into the Disney/Pixar movie, 'Cars.' 
Historically the site of a herpetarium, gift shop and dance hall, it finally became the Jack Rabbit Trading Post in 1949 to cater to the post war traffic along Route 66. It is positioned right next to the railway that is the ever-present companion to Route 66. It wasn't really a Trading Post typical of the region where Native American Arts such as authentic hand woven rugs and locally silversmithed jewelry would be traded. Instead,  Jack Rabbit was really a gaudy, fake Trading Post. As such it claimed a new style of mercantile brilliance; Route 66 memorabilia. With the bright yellow billboard and Jack Rabbit icon, visitors adored the new Trading Post and stopped for refreshments and a broad range of cheap souvenirs; fridge magnets, keychains, badges and pins, bandanas and t-shirts, anything with that Jack Rabbit logo was a sought after beloved commodity. The little museum inside is worth mooching around as it has many authentic signs, bottles and photographs that tell the history of Jack Rabbit.

I implore you to keep Jack Rabbit alive. Contribute to the economy of Route 66 and this darling Trading Post by buying some AZ Route 66 souvenirs stamped with the Jack Rabbit when you stop here. Chat with the owners, have a drink and a snack, mingle with fellow travelers, take pictures of the gorgeous signs and ride the larger than life fiberglass Jack Rabbit in the parking lot. I dare you not to smile and fall in love with this place. It is pure Americana with Route 66 stamped into its bones.

Watch out for that little jack rabbit icon all along the route. Now you know what you are looking for, you'll see him everywhere!
Jack Rabbit Trading Post, 3386 U.S. Rt. 66, Joseph City, AZ 86032
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Winslow

On a dark desert highway...

...on his way to Sedona, driving along Route 66, singer/songwriter Jackson Browne broke down on a corner in Winslow, Arizona. As a result, together with Glenn Frey, Browne wrote the famous Eagles song, 'Take It Easy' memorializing the breakdown, the corner and of course the girl in a flat bed Ford who slowed down to take a look. And they are all there for you to see at this popular Route 66 attraction.

"Well, I'm a-standin' on a corner in Winslow, Arizona
And such a fine sight to see
It's a girl, my Lord, in a flat-bed Ford

Slowin' down to take a look at me."
~'Take It Easy' by The Eagles


As soon as you arrive you will begin singing The Eagles song, you have no choice, you can't help yourself. It will cause either great humor or great annoyance to your travel partners or anyone who happens to be standin' nearby. Just go with it! 

Around 'the corner' there are shops, diners, a huge Route 66 sign stamped into the asphalt and a lovely, little, Old Trails Museum. Don't miss the Winslow Visitor Center and Chamber of Commerce which is incredibly informative regarding the history of the area. Also it was the site of the original Hubbell Trading Post.

Take pictures. Take it easy.
Winslow Visitor Center, 523 W 2nd St, Winslow, AZ 86047
Old Trails Museum, 212 N. Kinsley Ave, Winslow, AZ 86047 
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World's Smallest Church, Winslow

Advertised, but unverified, as the World's Smallest Church, you can stroll around to this little beauty from 'the corner.' At just 7 by 4.5 feet this colorful church is tiny and charming. 
World's Smallest Church, 116 E 2nd St, Winslow, AZ 86047
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9/11 Remembrance Garden, Winslow

A place to remember that fateful day back in 2001. The two pieces of twisted metal, actual remnants from the Twin Towers that fell, positioned accordingly, stand proudly beneath the flag. 
9/11 Remembrance Garden, Corner of East 3rd Street and Transcon Lane, Winslow
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La Posada Hotel, Winslow

Before I even get to this beautiful hotel and its history, I have to tell you about the dining experience at the Turquoise Room, the superb restaurant at La Posada that serves excellent, contemporary Southwestern cuisine. If you have had your fill of burgers, hot dogs, sundaes and shakes on Route 66, this restaurant serves superb food that will make you salivate at the memory. We stopped for lunch and I had the top sirloin beef tacos marinated with chipotle, cilantro, garlic and lime juice and a prickly pear lemonade. Delish! The dining room itself was a piece of art; tiles, rugs, vintage photographs and museum quality paintings made for a tasteful Southwestern ambience. Being a bit of a 'foodie,' I loved it! 

La Posada literally means 'resting place' and many famous people have indeed rested at La Posada, including Albert Einstein, John Wayne, Franklin D. Roosevelt, Amelia Earhart and many more. The hotel first opened in 1930 and has had something of a checkered past. You can read the entire history of this historic hotel by clicking here.

The grounds of the hotel are landscaped and worth wandering around. Yet another place to 'Take It Easy' in Winslow. There is a new museum at the back of the hotel with exhibits telling the history of the hotel. Of course the railway is right there on the doorstop and you can't help but imagine the glamorous arrivals waiting to experience the famous Fred Harvey hospitality the Hotel offered in its heyday.

We didn't stay in the hotel overnight, but if we did, we would book a room with a balcony overlooking the gorgeous gardens. I can't wait to return to this gem of a hotel.
La Posada Hotel, 303 E Second St Winslow, AZ 86047
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Two Guns

White settlers came to this area establishing a lawless town named Two Guns on the east rim of Canyon Diablo at the turn of the 19th century. Much blood had already been shed on this land due to tribal battles but the potential of the land becoming a funnel for trade via a tightly managed bridge connecting north and south Arizona over Canyon Diablo was an attractive proposition.

The town attracted all manner of bandits, outlaws and criminals running from the law. Bounty hunters and lawmen were routinely shot. Billy the kid and has gang made Two Guns their hideaway for over a year.

All that remains now is the stone rubble of building and homesteads, an old zoo building with the words 'Mountain Lions' still visible, a skeleton of a gas station, a pool covered in graffiti that used to belong to a KOA site and potted around the area are numerous water towers with similar graffiti.
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Apache Death Cave, Two Guns

Two Guns is now a ghost town, but there was a time when this site was a strategic location marking a geographical separation between the Apache tribe to the south and the Navajo tribe to the north, with a deep but narrow ravine known as Canyon Diablo.  There have been Indian artifacts dating back to 1050 found in the area.

In 1878, the story goes, members of the Apache tribe moved stealthily through rival Navajo land in an attempt to expand their territory. In the process they supposedly kidnapped two Navajo women. The Navajo were furious and immediately gave chase. Forty two Apache warriors and the kidnapped women retreated to a secret cave in Canyon Diablo. The Navajo tracked them down and set fire to huge swaths of sagebrush they had gathered and placed at the entrance to the cave, trapping all those inside, shooting any who tried to escape and asphyxiating the rest. It was a brutal, unforgiving death, hence the name; Apache Death Cave.

Today, all that is left of Two Guns and this murderous history, is the broken down remnants of stone buildings situated over the secret caves, some old water towers and, if you look really closely, you can see where the old corrals might have been.
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Twin Arrows

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Pee Pee by the Teepee

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Flagstaff Visitor Center, Flagstaff

Flagstaff Visitor's Center, 1 E Route 66, Flagstaff, AZ 86001
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Downtown, Flagstaff

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Muffler Man, Flagstaff

Do you know the Muffler Man?
(The Flagstaff Edition)
  • Iconic Americana
  • Less than 200 left
  • Found all over the U.S.
  • Made of fiberglass
  • Made by International Fiberglass Company, Venice, CA 1963-1974
  • The original Muffler Man mold was made by Bob Prewitt
  • 18-25 feet tall
  • Originally called Giant Men
  • Same stance, leaning slightly forwards, bent elbows, right hand up left hand down
  • Originally carried an axe, wrench, tire or muffler
  • Became popular with the auto industry as an advertising gimmick, so nicknamed Muffler Man
  • The first Muffler Man was modeled on Paul Bunyan and was a 20 foot fiberglass statue carrying a double axe made for Paul Bunyan Cafe in Flagstaff in 1963. When the Paul Bunyan Cafe changed names to The Lumberjack Cafe, they bought a second identical lumberjack Muffler Man. For years they stood like bookends at each end of the cafe.
  • When the Lumberjack Cafe restaurant sold and became Granny’s Closet, both Giant Men were donated to Northern Arizona University and renamed Louie the Lumberjack. Now, one stands outside the J. Lawrence Walkup Sky Dome by the box office . The second stands inside the dome underneath the scoreboard.​
  • At the original location on Route 66, Flagstaff, there now stands a restored carved wooden version of Louie the Lumberjack, known as Little Louie. Granny’s Closet is no longer there. 
  • Famous Muffler Men on Route 66; Gemini Giant in Wilmington, IL and Chicken Boy in Los Angeles, CA.
Two Muffler Men: J. Lawrence Walk Up Sky Dome, NAU Campus, Route 66, 1705 S San Francisco St, Flagstaff, AZ 86001
Little Louie: 
218 S Milton Rd, Flagstaff, AZ 86001
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San Francisco Mountains, Flagstaff

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Galaxy Diner, Flagstaff 

Galaxy Diner, 931 W Route 66, Flagstaff, AZ 86001
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Side Trip: Grand Canyon- South Rim

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Ash Fork

Exit the I40 at junction 144 and join Route 66 as it runs through the main road of Ash Fork. Known as the flag stone capital of the world, there are many examples of flag stone found throughout the town. Local and Route 66 history can be found off the main strip at the Ash Fork Route 66 Museum.

Ash Fork is the starting point for the longest, original, surviving stretch of Route 66, wending and winding 160 miles all the way to Topock on the Arizona/California border. Some say this is the best, and most beautifully preserved part of the entire Route, from Chicago to Santa Monica. Bypass the I40 and enjoy this part of the journey!
Ash Fork Route 66 Museum, 901 Old Rte 66, Ash Fork, AZ 86320
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Williams

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Grand Canyon Railway

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Grand Canyon Hotel

The Grand Canyon Hotel in Williams is the oldest hotel in Arizona on Route 66. Built in 1891, it’s a real beauty with old fashioned charm. The hotel register shows that the Vanderbilts, the King of Siam and the greatly esteemed John Muir all stayed at this boutique hotel, which at one time was the closest hotel to the Grand Canyon.
The Grand Canyon Hotel, 145 W. Route 66,  Williams, AZ 86046
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Williams at Night

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Bearizona

Bearizona, 1500 E Rte 66, Williams, AZ 86046
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Williams Veteran's Memorial

This memorial honors 14 local servicemen who who were killed in action serving their country during the wars. It also honors all veterans who have served in the military. ​As I am married to a veteran, war memorials are always on our list to visit, to pay our respects. Lest we forget.
Monument Park, Route 66, Williams, AZ 86046
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Santa Fe Dam

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Williams Canyon Coaster

This is a relatively new attraction on Route 66, but popular with young travelers. 

There is snow tubing without the snow with conveyors to get you to the top of the hill so that you can then slide down with glee. It is a lot of fun for young families.

The Canyon Coaster itself is a one mile track taking you up a 35 foot hill and then spinning you all the way back down in a wild ride where you can control your own speed in "toboggans" for up to two people around tight twists and hairpin turns in a thrilling ride that includes a 360 degree corkscrew.

Be sure not to get behind somebody that sits on their brakes or you may end up coming down much slower than you might wish.

This was a fun stop!
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Pete's Gas Station Museum

Pete's Gas Station Museum, 101 E. Route 66, Williams, AZ 86046
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Williams Gallery


Seligman

Seligman is a super smiley stop on Route 66. It is designated the "Birthplace of Route 66."

Bright lights, flashy colors and quirky little curio stores call you in to stop, rest and wander around town, but at a really slow, leisurely pace so you don't miss a thing. It's a place where time stands still. Everything has character; the road, the buildings, the food, the cars and especially the people. Everyone in town pulls together to make your visit to Seligman special so that you leave with memories to cherish forever. Seligman simply makes you smile.

The main road through Seligman is wide, maybe 50 feet or so. Lined up like welcoming bunting is a hodge podge of vibrantly colored buildings with their contents spilling out, almost into the road. It's charming. The wide array of businesses in Seligman nod to the history of transportation that characterize the early days of Route 66. The Old Trails Highway came through Seligman, then the Atlantic Pacific Railroad and then Route 66. It's always been a hub for weary travelers but Seligman makes a real effort to brighten and revive anyone passing through.

In 1978, the I40 bypassed Seligman. Oh no!

Seligman dug deep and fought back to claim its place in Route 66 history. With the indomitable, legendary Angel Delgadillo and a group of fellow business owners, the Seligman Chamber of Commerce lobbied the State of Arizona to protect the historically significant road and designate Route 66 as a "Historic Highway." This passed through the Arizona legislature in 1987. The Chamber consequently declared Seligman as the "Birthplace of Route 66." It was a significant victory for both Seligman and Route 66. In 2005, the National Park Service’s Route 66 Corridor Preservation Program provided a grant to document and nominate the Seligman's downtown district to the National Register of Historic Places. Another win for Seligman against the roaring I40 beast that had threatened to eat them up and spit them out.
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Roadkill Cafe and OK Saloon, Seligman

The name itself will make you snort with laughter. Allegedly, back in the day, you could bring your own roadkill into the cafe where it would be thrown on the grill and cooked up for your dinner. The tagline, "You kill it, we grill it!" caught on. I'm not sure if any of this is true but it sure sounds pretty cool! Regardless, this is a kinda iconic place to eat and drink in Seligman. Taxidermied animals with glazed, astonished eyes adorn the walls. There is a huge glass display cabinet packed with even more preserved animals to watch you eat.  It does sound a bit creepy, but it works! It's quirky, unexpected, original. It's Route 66! Of course it works! We loved it!

The food and service was outstanding. I had an orange Route 66 soda in a bottle and a slice of coconut cream pie that was to die for. The burger was enormous, delicious and there was no roadkill in sight! Recommended! 

Please take a wander through the cafe for some really interesting Route 66 memorabilia. Chat to the wait staff to learn some history of the cafe and Seligman. Enjoy the cool vibes.
Roadkill Cafe and OK Saloon, 22830 W, AZ-66, Seligman, AZ 86337
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Historic Motels, Seligman


Delgadillo's Snow Cap, Seligman

Built in 1953 by Juan Delgadillo from scrap railyard lumber and now run by his children, Cecilia and John, in the same playful, thoroughly entertaining manner, Delgadillo's Snow Cap is a quintessential Route 66 stop. You have to go there and pay homage to Juan, the man.

Juan Delgadillo sadly passed away in 2004 but there is a memorial garden in the back that will make you smile at the outrageous and creative memorabilia that has been collected over the years. The garden tugs at your heartstrings because you can feel the familial love and brilliant sense of humor of the man. Don't skip it!

At the door you are greeted with a delightful neon sign stating ,'Sorry, we're open!' On the menu, the fun continues with offerings like 'cheeseburger with cheese' and 'dead chicken.' I ordered my customary strawberry milkshake and was not given a straw. On purpose. When I asked for a straw I was given a handful of actual straw that was kept hidden under the counter. I laughed, the servers laughed, all the customers in the store laughed. It was a hoot! Such fun! You get more cheese than you could possibly fit on any cheeseburger at the Snow Cap.

Make sure you check out the old 1936 Chevvy parked out front that used to belong to Juan. The iconic Snow Cap car loaded with a Christmas Tree in the trunk is pure kitschy brilliance that reflects the showmanship of the man and gives Chitty Chitty Bang Bang a run for her money. The car remains part of the Snow Cap logo.
Delgadillo's Snow Cap Drive-In: 301 AZ-66, Seligman, AZ 86337
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Angel & Vilma Delgadillo's Original Route 66 Gift Shop 

Angel & Vilma Delgadillo's Original Route 66 Gift Shop, 22265 Historic Route 66, Seligman, AZ 86337
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Grand Canyon Caverns, Entrance

Grand Canyon Caverns, Mile Marker 115, AZ-66, Peach Springs, AZ 86434
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Grand Canyon Caverns

I thoroughly enjoyed the tour of these majestic caverns. They are the largest dry caverns in the United States, and so time, pressure, and drained water, were the predominant factors in their formation over 65 million years ago. After a short trip in an elevator that takes you down 200 feet into the bowels of the earth, you exit into the cool caves carved out of a bed of limestone that once was the bottom of an ancient inland sea that was so huge it divided North America. Within the caverns there is a green lit grotto that has been turned into a restaurant, a retro, kinda post-apocalyptic bedroom that will accommodate up to 6 guests for $1000 a night, a bomb shelter with dozens and dozens of water barrels and containers with dry food supplies that date back to the Kennedy era in case of a nuclear attack, a small movie theater, a wedding chapel with discarded bouquets on display that ostensibly show how the cool, dark, dry caves preserve organic material, and within all these commercialized wonders there lies some incredible Arizona history, rock and crystal formations. My favorites were the Snowball Palace and the 15 foot model of a giant ground sloth that apparently dwelled in the caves millions of years ago. The model reminded me of the "Princess Bride" when Westley and Buttercup battled with the rodents of unusual size in the Fire Swamp.

The caves are also known for paranormal activity and have featured in the TV show "Ghost Adventures." I didn't see, hear or feel any ghosts, they had probably withered away with the wedding bouquets.
Recommend: The Cavern Tour- approximately 3/4 mile long and lasts about 45 minutes 
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Grand Canyon Caverns Grill Restaurant

 These signs made me chuckle in the Grand Canyon Caverns Grill.
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Grand Canyon Caverns, World's Largest Dinosaur Saddle

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Truxton

Frontier Motel, 16118 E Rte 66, Truxton, AZ 86434
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Peach Springs

This quaint little town is the capital of the Native American Hualapai (pronounced Wal-lah-pie) Nation, the administrative seat of the Hualapai tribe. The name is derived from "hwa:l," the Hualapai word for Ponderosa Pine. Hualapai translates as "People of the Tall Pines." The tribal nation stretches 108 miles south of the Grand Canyon
"For the Hualapai, the universe and the earth are connected in a circle, with no beginning or end, and the mighty Canyon and the Colorado River are living entities infused with conscious spirit. These Indigenous people invite you to walk their land and experience their universe, to ignite your spirit."
~Grand Canyon West website
Due to the passing traffic on Route 66 and the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad (now the BNSF Railroad) this used to be a thriving town until the I40 bypassed it, 25 miles to the south, in 1978. The traffic dwindled and businesses dried up. This familiar story of small towns on Route 66 being bypassed by an Interstate Highway was the inspiration for the Disney/Pixar movie "Cars." Peach Springs is supposed to have been the creative inspiration for Radiator Springs in the movie. Kachow!
Side Trips: Peach Springs is a great place to begin a side adventure that includes the Grand Canyon Skywalk, hike to Havasu Falls, white water rafting, ziplining, helicopter and pontoon tours. 
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Side Trip: Havasu Falls

I made this magical 10 mile trek to the blue green waters of Havasu Creek, a side tributary to the Colorado River and the Grand Canyon, back in 2010. It is not part of the National Park, instead the trek leaves from the rim at Hualapai Hilltop and then descends into the Havasupai Indian Reservation, and so it requires a permit that needs to be booked in advance. A mule carried my large pack containing the tent and heavier supplies. I hiked with a lighter day pack. There is a series of falls to explore; Havasu Falls, Mooney Falls and Beaver Falls.  These are perhaps the most beautiful falls in the world with their cool turquoise water falling in contrast against the warm red rocks. It is a challenging hike into a remote location. There is potable water and a couple of porta potties that are airlifted in and out, but other than that, there is nothing. Pack in, pack out.

This was the trip of a lifetime and words are not capable of describing the beauty of this sacred land.

Today the Havasupai are fighting back against corporations who wish to mine their land for uranium. All indigenous nations are uniting against nuclear colonialism. This land deserves to be protected, not for the enjoyment of tourists, but to protect the consecrated land that holds the ancestral bones and homes of the tribes that have lived there forever.
Hualapai Hilltop, Supai, AZ 86435
Permit Reservations: https://theofficialhavasupaitribe.com/

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Valentine

Valentine used to be a popular place from which to post Valentine's Day cards. People would flock to this tiny village to get a coveted Valentine cancellation stamp. ​
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Valentine Gas Station

Oh my darling Valentine! Sitting pretty at the mouth of Truxton Canyon between Route 66 and the Santa Fe Railroad, the stunning forecourt of Valentine Gas Station entices passers by to stop and enjoy the Americana beauty on display. Burma Shave signs, vintage gas pumps, old cars, assorted gas station signs and memorabilia adorn the frontage.
Valentine Gas Station, 12687-12539, AZ-66, Valentine, AZ 86437
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Hackberry General Store

This old, rickety, tin roofed store is like a favorite uncle; unconventional, wrinkled with age, a bit salty, full of charm, character and a lifetime of unbelievable experiences as gritty as the desert dirt it stands on. This is the universally beloved Hackberry General Store

Found in the tiny village of Hackberry and named after the Arizona native Hackberry Bush, Hackberry General Store opened on the north side of the railroad in 1934 when Route 66 was realigned. It was originally operated by the esteemed Route 66 artist, the original crusty uncle, Bob Waldemire, famous for traveling the Route in his orange 1972 Volkswagen Microbus. Bob is believed to be the inspiration behind the character of Fillmore in the Disney/Pixar movie "Cars." 

We arrived early, before it opened, and took our time wandering around the vintage gas pumps, delighting in the original signs and a lifetime of collected memorabilia jumbled together on the front porch. Cars from a bygone era  parked and stacked in the back yard were a bit decrepit but still beautiful. Good bones. It was like stepping back in time. We sat and relaxed in the morning sun with Charlie, the white and marmalade cat, purring comfortably nearby. Or was that me purring?


Inside there is range of Route 66 trinkets, clothing, souvenirs and refreshments. There is a charming wood burning stove and a mock-up of a fifties diner. The toilets were spectacular. Marilyn Monroe was there. I had to drag Kim away from the store as he was ready to buy the place!
Hackberry General Store, 11255 AZ-66, Kingman, AZ 86411
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​Giganticus Headicus and Guardian of Route 66

 The Antares Visitor Center is the home of the huge, green, 14 ft tall Tiki head, the one and only, "Giganticus Headicus." It was created in 2003 by local artist Gregg Arnold and although it is a relatively new addition to Route 66, it is gathering popularity with younger Route 66 travelers gaining cult status on Instagram. It is also home of another new fave, "The Guardian of Route 66," also constructed by Arnold and unveiled in 2006. Made of metal remnants and car parts the tall Amazonian-like guardian of the Mother Road usually carries a flag, but she was not holding one on the day we were there. Lots of old cars and plenty of playful nods to the Disney/Pixar movie "Cars," this is a fun stop for kids of all ages.
Antares Visitor Center, 9855 AZ-66, Kingman, AZ 86401
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Side Trip: Hoover Dam

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Side Trip: Las Vegas

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Kingman

Kingman is known as "The Heart of Route 66." It is still a hard working mining town that is jam packed full of vintage motels, diners, gas stations, murals, neon lights and iconic Googie architecture.
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​Santa Fe Railroad Fuel and Water Tanks

The heart of Kingman's history is marked by the imposing structures of the gas and water towers built to service the Santa Fe Railroad Depot. You can't miss the looming towers as they welcome Route 66 visitors to the historic downtown district. ​
Santa Fe Railroad Fuel and Water Tanks, 500-510 E Andy Devine Ave, Kingman, AZ 86401
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​Powerhouse Visitor Center

​Beside the ever present railroad tracks sits the large brick building that is the Powerhouse Visitor Center. Originally built in 1906 as an electricity generating station for nearby mines in the Black Mountains, it is now a hub for visitors and the home of the Historic Route 66 Museum. It has an interesting exhibit on the history of the dust bowl migration, tons of authentic Route 66 memorabilia displayed in reconstructed store fronts and my favorite was the exhibit on the history of electric vehicles. I enjoyed seeing Willie Nelson's electric golf cart! To see the Tesla electric charging stations outside the building pays homage to the past and confirms the future of this location as an electricity providing powerhouse. A place to recharge your batteries.

As well as the museum, inside there are curio gift shops and a booth providing maps, brochures and information about the surrounding area, provided by friendly and knowledgeable staff. Don't forget to get your Route 66 passport stamped here. Along the side of the Visitor Center there is a Kingman mural in the typical Bob Waldemire style.

​You can drive through a huge Route 66 sign here too!
Powerhouse Visitor Center, 120 W. Andy Devine Ave, Kingman, AZ 86401.
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El Trovatore Hotel

My absolute favorite hotel in Kingman is the iconic El Trovatore Motel. Built in 1937, it began its life as a service station, later adding a broader forecourt and motel rooms in 1939. It is nestled atop of El Trovatore Hill with views across the Hualapai Mountains and looking down into the town of Kingman. There is so much to love! Each room is Hollywood themed, and though we didn't see the rooms, we could see that this was a fun, well cared for motel.  A mural stretching the length of the motel shows a colorful 206 foot map of the entire Route and the forecourt has a huge Route 66 banner stamped into the asphalt. The pool was empty, but even that was painted! The signage is spectacular. At the front there is the iconic neon entrance sign to welcome weary travelers and at the back there is the tall vertical sign that is equally stunning.

​The motel even has its own song! Check it out below...
El Trovatore Motel, 1440 E Andy Devine Ave, Kingman, AZ 86401
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Hotel Beale

​Lonely and abandoned, closed for over twenty years now, but still holding its head up high, this old Route 66 hotel sits opposite the Santa Fe Railroad Depot and originally accommodated passengers traveling through Kingman. I cannot find any information about this beautiful running hare sculpture, does anyone know anything about it?
Hotel Beale, 325 E Andy Devine Ave, Kingman, AZ 86401
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Hilltop Motel

Hilltop Motel, ​1901 E Andy Devine Ave, Kingman, AZ 86401
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Other Kingman Hotels


Scrap Yard

We stumbled across this scrap yard in Kingman and found these gorgeous old neon signs, typical of Route 66.
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Mr. D'z Route 66 Diner

Conveniently located opposite the Powerhouse Visitor Center is the best diner in town, in my opinion, Mr. D'z Route 66 Diner. Painted in bright neon colors of pepto pink and clashing turquoise this stand out vintage diner is a must-stop in Kingman. The menu is varied and delicious and the staff are friendly and work together like a well-oiled machine. It is most famous for homemade root beer and pizza, but from what we saw of the food coming out of the kitchen, no matter what you order, you won't be disappointed, whether its breakfast, lunch or dinner. I had a strawberry malt milkshake that was memorably delicious but I was envious of the root beer floats that were delivered to the surrounding tables.

A 50's style jukebox greets you, Route 66 memorabilia hangs on the walls, a cute old fashioned bubblegum machine sits by the door, wraparound booths hug the walls, and round retro bar stools line the soda counter. I even loved the details of the Googie boomerang design on the countertops. Oprah and Gayle stopped here when they completed their road trip across America. I'm glad we did too.
Mr. D'z Route 66 Diner, 105 E Andy Devine Ave, Kingman, AZ 86401
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Kingman Gallery

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Mohave Museum

This unassuming museum tells the story of the history and arts of the Mohave region of Arizona. As you walk in you are greeted with pride and patriotism in the form of an extensive gallery of painted portraits of every President and First Lady of the United States on display. I found it to be rather unsettling to see all those white faces staring back at me (except Barack and Michelle Obama), against the museum's backdrop of indigenous Indian displays showing artifacts and beautiful photographs of their way of life; their homes, farming, cooking, pottery, crafts, clothing and more. In 1850, when Millard Fillmore was President and his lovely wife Abigail was First Lady (they are right there, up on the wall), the Mohave territory including the whole of Arizona was annexed by the United States, and with it began the encroachment by the US Army. Conflict between Mohave Indians and the US government grew and then raged on for years. The US government's official plan was to eradicate indigenous language and culture and to take ownership of the land. We all know how it ends. There are some other lovely displays in this museum, especially the ones depicting the history of mining, but I just couldn't get past all those Presidents watching me, daring me to speak a single word of dissent. History at its best is painful, provocative and heartbreaking in its humanity. This museum delivers.
Mohave Museum, 400 W Beale St, Kingman, AZ 86401
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Bangkok Thai Cuisine

If you fancy a change from diner food as you journey along the Mother Road, you might like to try Bangkok Thai Cuisine, It is a tasty alternative.

​Excellent food and service make this a great Route 66 pit stop.
Bangkok Thia Cuisine, 208 W Andy Devine Ave, Kingman, AZ 86401
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Cool Springs Station

​Along the Oatman Highway you will find the reconstructed, small but beautiful, Cool Springs Station. The golden desert seems to warmly hug this cutie-pie of a stone gas station. The vintage gas pumps are gorgeous. The Station is surrounded by an abundance of cacti and succulents and the iconic expansive mountain landscape peers over the valley. The earth feels rich with secrets here. Hidden gold, silver, fortresses, deep caverns and other buried treasures are cached nearby. Wild West mysteries whisper and skulk like tumbleweed. This is a great place to stop for refreshments. There is a museum tucked in the back of the store with memorabilia and Mother Road history, including interesting photos and history of the 121 curves of the sidewinder road at Sitgreaves Pass. The gift store carries some authentic hand made Native American jewelry and crafts. I bought a handcrafted Indian beaded feather stick for smudging sage and palo Santo. The day we were there they also had large rocks and crystals mined from the local area on sale on tables out front. 

The mountain you see in the background looks like it is straight out of the Disney/Pixar movie, 'Cars.' According to the Mohave County Highways records, the name of the mountain has changed many times over the years. In 1857 it was named Frank Murray Peak, then it became Irataba Peak in 1858. Later, when the survey team came through the valley for the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad, they renamed it Mount Nutt, while the local miners offensively called it Squaw Tit. Finally the United States Geological Survey settled on the current name, Thimble Mountain. 


There are cabins here if you want to stay overnight.

​There is a Route 66 sign painted on the road out front that makes for a cool photo op.
Cool Springs Station, 8275 Oatman Road, W Historic Rte 66, Golden Valley,  AZ 86413
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Shaffer Fish Bowl Spring

Blink and you'll miss it!

Watch for the steps cut into the cliffs between Sitgreaves Pass and Cool Springs at around mile marker 30 and at the top you will be rewarded with a great view of Golden Valley and find Shaffer Fish Bowl Spring. It is a hidden gem, formed by a freshwater spring. There were fish in it! They looked like small goldfish, but I can't be sure. It is a secret little oasis providing water for buzzy insects, drowsy desert reptiles and lost mammals. The stone basin was made by an old highway construction worker named.... you guessed it....Shaffer. A real beauty spot.
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Shaffer Fish Bowl Spring, Mile Marker 30, Oatman Road, AZ
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Sitgreaves Pass

“Feel the rhythm! Feel the rhyme! Get on up, it’s bobsled time! Cool runnings!”
~Sanka Coffie from the movie "Cool Runnings"
Known as the "Sidewinder" this stretch of the road is twisty-turny-scary-snaky and has claimed many lives with its hairpin bends, steep curves, cliff drops, no guard rails and literally no room for driving errors. It presents as a bobsled run, a white knuckle ride tumbling down the mountain. It reminded me of the Disney movie "Cool Runnings," which, according to the movie means "peace be the journey." Winding through the Black Mountains between Oatman and Walnut Creek with an elevation of 3,550ft above sea level, it is 191 curves and 22 miles of exhilarating driving. If the Road is a metaphor for life, this is where you embrace the bumps, the unexpected twists and turns, lean back and let the road rise to meet you.

At the top of the mountain graves are marked of those who have lost their lives on the "Sidewinder." A place to quietly pay your respects.


From this high viewpoint you can see the history of mining scarring the landscape as far as the eye can see.

​Stay safe! Peace be the journey!
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Oatman

Oatman is a charming former gold mining town nestled in the Black Mountains in the Mohave Desert, Arizona. It is perhaps the most famous town on the Arizona stretch of Route 66, due to the unusual town inhabitants that wander the dusty streets- the burros.

We were greeted by burros on the road as we approached. The burros were friendly and unafraid of cars or people. They had ever-so-long ears, a dark cross on their backs and looked well fed and healthy. Arriving in town, with a population of around 50 people, we were greeted by a larger population of the burros, wandering the streets, trying to enter the stores and generally just mooching about, gently wandering through the bikes and bikers, delighted to greet new friends. The burros are synonymous with Oatman and are a symbol of the old Wild West. Stroll through the town and enjoy quirky stores like Outlaw Willie's and Fast Fanny's. The political signs and confederate flags were seriously off putting. 

​One the way out of town we saw even more burros against the backdrop of Shark Tooth Mountain.
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Oatman Hotel

Smack dab in the middle of town is the Oatman Hotel. Originally called the Drulin Hotel, it changed its name to the Oatman Hotel in the 1960's. The historic two story adobe building is now a museum, ice cream shop, bar and restaurant, and no longer accommodates overnight guests. You can pop in for a meal at the restaurant or have a drink or two or three in the saloon where you can sign then add a dollar (or whatever currency you have) to the walls or ceiling. Many famous people have stayed in the hotel including Clark Gable and Carol Lombard who spent their honeymoon night  there on March 18th, 1939. Their honeymoon suite is still a popular attraction at the museum. Clark Gable is rumored to have loved playing poker with the local miners in the saloon and returned to the hotel many times.
Oatman Hotel, 181 Main St, Oatman, AZ 86433
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Oatman and the Movies

​Oatman has also been the site of many movies, perhaps most famously, "How The West Was Won" starring James Stewart, John Wayne, Gregory Peck and Henry Fonda. You can still see the Old School House as well as the rickety Old Bridge that was built specifically for the set of the movie. ​
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Olive Oatman

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Photo Credit: Public Domain- Benjamin F. Powelson, circa 1863
According to the sign in town, located opposite the Oatman Hotel, Olive Ann Fairchild, Indian captive and lecturer, daughter of Royse (Royce) and Mary Ann (Sperry) Oatman, was born in Illinois in September 1837 or 1839. In 1850 her family joined a wagon train bound for the part of the Colorado River now in southern California, but the train split several times until the Oatman's and their seven children were left to travel alone. On February 18, 1851, Apaches (some authorities say Yavapais) attacked them on the Gila River in Arizona. Olive and her sister Mary were captured, their brother Lorenzo left for dead, and the rest of the family massacred. The girls were held as slaves for a year at a village near the site of modern Congress, Arizona, then sold to a Mojave chief near Needles, California, after a march of several hundred miles. Olive and Mary's chins were marked with indelible blue cactus tattoos to proclaim their status as slaves, and they were forced to forage for their own food. In a subsequent year of drought, Mary died of starvation and abuse. Olive often feared death, for the Mojave's threatened her whenever whites were nearby or when the tribe went to war; they also made her watch other captives being tortured.
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On February 28, 1856, wearing a bark skirt and able to speak only a little English, Olive was ransomed at Fort Yuma, Arizona, for a horse, blankets, and beads. There she was reunited with Lorenzo.
Olive Oatman is believed to be the first white woman to be marked with a Native American tattoo. The tattoo was blue and in the tradition of Mohave Apache Indians.

Side Trip: London Bridge, Lake Havasu, Lake Havasu City

London Bridge is not falling down and surprisingly, it is not in London. This was a fun stop for us as we loved the telephone box, post box, fish and chips and lots of union jacks flying from the bridge. A home from home right here in Arizona!
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Topock

Route 66 meets the Colorado River at Topock. The Colorado River marks the state boundary between Arizona and California. The bridge crossing the river is perhaps the most remarkable aspect of the small dusty town.

"Not all who wander are lost"
​~JRR Tolkien


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