The awe-inspiring Oregon coastline continues to surprise.

Today we headed even further north, hitting central Oregon and Cape Perpetua. The cape was given its name by the British explorer, Captain James Cook, who first saw the headland in 1778 and named it after St. Perpetua the patron saint of peace, perfection and motherhood. 

Inland there were dense forests of impossibly tall Ponderosa Pines, Western Hemlocks and mature Douglas Firs. Low lying wizened Sitka Spruce, shaped and gnarled by high winds and salty sea spray, clung to the bluffs on the towering 800 foot headland jutting out into the Pacific.

The Cape Perpetua Scenic Area covers over 2500 acres of coastal habitat. We were particularly interested in checking out the marine reserve made up of reefs, rock pools, chasms, caves, beaches and unusual rock formations.

To begin, we headed toward's the parking lot at The Devil's Churn. There was a great viewing platform to the north of the lot. We had timed it to perfection as the waves were relentlessly rolling into the deep, narrow chasm below, creating a dramatic churning effect in the water. The swelling waves took on the form of a whipped vanilla milkshake, all milky and frothy, as they surged up the channel, crashing chaotically against the sides of the steep rocks in all directions. The chasm probably started out as a narrow fissure in the volcanic basalt bedrock, or perhaps a collapsed lava tube, and then the violent power of the ocean, terrifying and majestic, pounded its way through, creating a crack in the rocks that could lead down to the Devil himself. We could clearly see how The Devil's Churn got its name. 

We then made our way on the trail down to the lower ledges to get a closer look where we could not only see the strength of the battering ocean against the rocks, but taste the salt in the spray, hear the rolling roar of the waves, and feel the curling swirls of air displaced by the churning water. It was dark down there and a little scary being that close to the untamed power of nature.

We continued round the edge of the opening of the chasm where it met the Pacific and suddenly there were calmer waters and huge rock pools to explore. We found large green sea anemones, ochre starfish, urchins and sea slugs. It was astonishing how the raging chasm was adjacent to the peaceful pools.

Kim stayed to watch the churn a little longer and Henry and I continued to play in the pools. Henry was keeping a beady eye on me and any potential sneaker waves after the Ophir Beach fiasco. He was being very careful and very protective. Very sweet.

Eventually Henry headed off to find Kim and we all lost track of each other. We eventually met up by the truck and headed into Yachats, smack dab in the middle of the Cape.

Yachats was a charming gem of a town. The name Yachats, pronounced Yah-hots, comes from the local native Siletz language and means "dark water at the foot of the mountain." Apt! We parked just past the cove, by a huge whale tail sculpture, on the side of the road. 

We took a leisurely walk through town in the sunshine, stopping at the Little Log Church built in the 1920's. It was undergoing some renovations and the museum was closed so we kept walking, mooching around the shops, enjoying all the sculptures of multicolored sea lions on every block corner. There was fantastic rock, crystal and gem store that took a lot longer to explore. Eventually it was time for lunch and we ate at a lovely family owned diner. 

After lunch we spent time at Thor's Well, Cook's Chasm and The Spouting Horn. Back on the rugged, rocky shoreline, the ocean was throwing up huge waves of spray as it hit the rocks and pools. There were many gullies and chasms slicing through the rocks where the ocean boomed into underwater caves. It was a wild and dramatic landscape. Literally breathtaking.

We spotted Thor's Well, a sinkhole-like feature where the ocean surged beneath the rocks and found its way up and out of a bottomless bowl in the rocks. Every surge and spatter of the rhythmic ocean making its way over and under was spectacular. I practiced taking photos on my iPhone using long exposure to create a flowy effect. I love playing with photos like this.

Nearby was Cook's Chasm, named after the British explorer, another deep narrow gully, but much shorter and without the deep, gorge-like sides of Devil's Churn. The chasm flowed under the concrete arches of Cook's Chasm Bridge, allowing the trust US101 Highway to wind its way through the lower rocky ledges of the cape.

The huge waves rolling into Cook's Chasm carved underwater caves out of the basalt rocks. We could hear the water roaring and reverberating, pounding and crashing with echoing booms. A smallish hole in the rocks above the underwater caves created an outlet for the pressure below, creating a geyser-like fountain of sea spray, like a pressure cooker releasing steam. In my imagination it was a fire-breathing dragon snorting sleepy smoke out of its nostril while curled up in its subterranean cave. Like Smaug. It is known locally as The Spouting Horn.

We stayed for a long time and enjoyed being hammered by the forces of nature.

We began to lose light so we hiked back up to the truck and set off back to the Trailer.

What a phenomenal, memorable day!

The Myrtle and Mussel Rivers converge and spill out into the Pacific Ocean across low sand dunes and a wide beach, at Arizona Beach, just North of Gold Beach in Southern Oregon.

We stopped on our way back home from our day trip to Port Orford and came across this gang of elk grazing peacefully in a meadow in front of a deserted motel. Once we waited for the proud bull and several cows to cross the road right in front of us we made it on to the beach where we encountered a variety of birds including a large squadron of pelicans.

We love these unexpected animal encounters, observing their behavior in their natural habitat. What a joy!

Henry decided he wanted a day to himself so Kim and I set off on a "Date Day."

Hand in hand we headed south on the US 101, the Pacific Coast Highway, towards the Monterey peninsula and Pebble Beach to drive the winding 17-Mile drive, a private road tracing the rugged Pacific coastline, a microcosm of the region's natural beauty.

We stopped at a roadside fruit stall on the way, somewhere near Moss Landing, for a quick snack of peaches and cherries that were deliciously sweet and juicy. We also picked up some local sage and wildflowers raw honey and some huge avocados, jalapenos, ripe tomatoes and a big bunch of cilantro to make a salsa for a light dinner. As I write this now, I can tell you that the honey with whiskey and hot water is THE BEST thing I have drunk since beginning the trip! Sooooo gooooood! I digress. Back to the 17-Mile Drive...

We paid a small fee to enter the guarded entrance and set off towards the beach. It was an overcast day and it began to drizzle. This was such a welcome change after weeks and weeks of sunshine and beating hot days that we welcomed the weather by opening the truck windows and weaving our hands through the rain. We reached the beach and it was cool and walkable, so with hoods up, we slowly combed the shoreline. Pelicans sitting on top of the seaweed-bedraggled craggy rocks jutting out of the blue-green ocean, the fine sandy beaches rimmed with smooth grey pebbles and driftwood that seemed to be artistically placed for the most pleasing effect, waves gently breaking in a serene rhythm, created a landscape worthy of an artist's dream. It felt surprisingly wild and yet cultivated at the same time. ​

We made some iconic stops along the route. The Lone Cypress, a withered tree clinging for dear life to a granite outcrop rising from the ocean, has become a symbol for strength and resilience, especially for golfers who live and play in the Pebble Beach area. The dignified solitude of the brave little tree, all alone, withstanding the weather and erosion was heartwarming. You couldn't help but root for the little fellow.

We took a day trip up Highway One in California from Santa Cruz all the way to Half Moon Bay, about 50 miles in total, stopping along the route to enjoy the spectacular coastal views and to visit some highly recommended California State Parks.

Our first stop was Wilder Ranch State Park where we were immediately taken under the wing of a lovely Miss-Marple-esque docent named Jean who was dressed in full Victorian garb and eager to share her knowledge of the park. She took us on a tour around the historic buildings.

Originally settled by the Wilder family in 1871, the ranch was transformed into a flourishing dairy farm that played an important role in the developing dairy industry in the region. We visited the Wilder family home, a selection of outbuildings and a barn dating back to 1890 that was built without any nails or glue but instead by using a jigsaw style of woodwork where all the pieces slot together. Incredible. 

In the photographs, see if you can spot Henry pumping iron.

The park offered views over sandy beaches, steep bluffs hanging over the Pacific and across lush forests and idyllic meadows. It was a haven for birds and a variety of deer. Lots of bikers were out exploring the trails.

Further up the coast we stopped at a wonderful hidden gem, Shark Fin Cove, sometimes known as Shark Tooth Beach. 

The huge rock emerging from the water like the dorsal fin of a huge shark is striking. Cue the "Jaws" music!

We were excited to see so many wild birds; pelicans, cormorants, gulls. We glimpsed some seals cavorting in the cove too. The contrasting rugged mud cliffs and the pristine sandy beach was gorgeous and we could have stayed all day.

Next stop was Año Nuevo State Park. Famed for its elephant seal colony and long sandy beaches, this was a fun stop where we just relaxed and basked in the summer sunshine on the beach. Once again we were joined by seals in the surf and so many squawking sea birds. We had the beach to ourselves. I just wandered down the shore line, beach combing, Kim found a Gandalf walking stick and Henry just sat and relaxed for awhile watching the seals.

Our next stop was Pigeon Point Light Station. 

A little museum atop the cliff, stunning coastal walks, clear views of the kelp forests, a playing field of jagged rocks for so many seals enjoying being tossed around in the crashing waves and of course the looming lighthouse. A harsh but beautiful landscape, perfect for rock pools and mini ecosystems offering a close up view of starfish, anemones, crabs, barnacles, mussels and other hidden creatures. It felt good being buffeted by the wind.

Continuing up the coastline we stopped for drinks and a snack in Davenport and took lots of pics on the way up to Half Moon Bay. Finally we stopped at Maverick's Beach, the famed Californian surfing beach as seen in the movie Chasing Mavericks, surprisingly starring Gerard Butler.

Of course, there was not a wave in sight. Flat as a pancake out there!

Here is some fine footage of the HUGE waves that have been filmed at Maverick's.