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Sisters do indeed rock! I am fortunate to have two wonderful sisters, an older sister, Louise, and a younger sister, Caroline. I am piggy in the middle. We are very close and I love them dearly so I am always drawn to locations that celebrate sisters, particularly three sisters. The first occasion where Louise, Caroline and myself found ourselves in front of a rock formation called The Three Sisters was in the Blue Mountains, just outside Sydney, Australia. This is a very hazy photo of that moment taken in 1977.  So I was delighted to happen across Sisters Rock State Park in Oregon just north of Gold Beach and our campsite at Honey Bear By The Sea, where we stopped for some quick pics of three rocks sitting out in the Pacific Ocean, called the Three Sisters. I took a happy moment to send love to my sweet sisters and all my family back in England. Lovely xxx 
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After my never-to-be-forgotten baptism in the Pacific Ocean at Ophir Beach, we resumed our trip along the Oregon coast between Gold Beach and Brooking exploring the Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor, stopping at all the stunning view points and marveling at the ruggedness of the coastline and the iconic sea stacks and lone islands, the eroded remnants of jutting headlands and geologic uprisings; Buena Vista, Cape Sebastien, Meyer's Creek, Pistol River, Whaleshead, Lone Ranch and of course Natural Bridges Viewpoint. There are nearly 2000 sea stacks and small islands to be found in Oregon creating a magical, almost mysterious visual panorama. They are part of the Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge and are protected as they provide a critical habitat for thousands of birds and shore life, some rare and endangered. The rocky ledges are favored by seagulls, guillemots and cormorants which we could see at almost every stop. We also saw brown pelicans flying by in a V-formation, looking very much like prehistoric pterodactyls. The stacks are also home to bald eagles and peregrine falcons who find fish and food aplenty in the pines and in the ocean. We are excited to see tufted puffins further up the coast. I keep my binoculars in the truck and take time to try and spot the birds. After a few stops, we drove on to the Natural Bridges. We stopped and made the short hike over to the viewpoint to see the natural sea bridges, carved by eroding waves. We did not make it down to the beach or the bridges as the trail was wet and muddy from the previous day's downpour. It was so slick and steep it would have been easy to slip down the face of the cliff. We did not want to risk it, even though it was a beautiful day, the conditions just didn't work out for us. One of the best features of the Pacific Northwest is how the pine trees butt right up to the edge of the ocean creating the most picturesque views where land meets water. We saw the very best of that today.     The morning mist lazily moved ashore, settling like a sullen ghost upon the virgin forest. Ancient Redwoods with loose, green moss frocks rose out of the grey shadows. Sitka Spruce and Western Hemlock stood watching, serious soldiers on guard duty. Douglas Fir shivered in the mist, shaking water droplets on to the damp forest floor, lush with vegetation. Silver skinned Alders bowed over as if to drink from the nearby Creek. A lone stag wandered before us, antlers aloft. Rings of small white mushrooms completed the fairy tale imagery. And so we began our Jurassic Journey into Fern Canyon located in the Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. The damp vertical canyon walls of Fern Canyon rose above the gentle flow of Godwood Creek. We could see many varieties of moss and tanoaks growing from the walls. The whole place felt old and timeless. The canyon got its name from the unique growth of five different species of fern that thrive in the dense damp conditions; five-fingered fern, lady fern, sword fern, deer fern and chain fern. These ferns, older than dinosaurs, were the original oxygenators on the planet. You could imagine the first creatures with lungs breathing in the air made by these astonishing, primeval plants. Through the mist, we hiked over rickety wooden bridges, jumped across narrow parts of the Creek, found stepping stones or fallen trees on the wider parts as we traversed back and forth making our way through the canyon trail. The air was cool and wet and green. The ferns were incredible and seemed to surround us in all dimensions. Not surprisingly, Fern Canyon was the shooting location for the Star Wars movie, "Return of the Jedi." It was the home of the little furry Ewoks portrayed as living on a distant moon called Endor. As we were walking on the trail, it felt like we were on some distant moon in a far flung corner of the cosmos and would perhaps encounter primitive furry alien beings at any moment. It felt like the further we walked into the canyon, the further we were walking back in time. Jurassic Park II was also filmed in Fern Canyon. If we couldn't stretch our imagination to little Ewoks, we could certainly stretch into believing dinosaurs roamed freely through the canyon at some time or another in its history. What a glorious place!
We spent a restful day at the trailer after our arrival in Crescent City as we had spent the entire previous day traveling through Humboldt County, through Eureka and then up the northern Californian Coast to Crescent City. Kim was tired. We were all tired. Refreshed, the next day we set off to explore the Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park. Jedediah Smith of "Night at the Museum" movie fame. Haha! We headed out on our friend the US101, skirted past the Kings Valley Golf Course then took the twisty turny road to the US199 that ribboned through tree tunnels of towering, ancient Californian Redwoods. These humongous trees seemed so much older and wiser than the Redwoods we had seen previously in Felton, just outside Santa Cruz. They were somehow taller, straighter, more watchful, a little greyer and bearded with tangled mosses of greens and browns and greys. Your mouth couldn't help but drop open in sheer wonder at the magnificent beings. Our first stop was at the Simpson-Reed Trail, just off the Walker Road. We were genuinely stunned and humbled by the Redwoods. It was a short 1 mile trail but it took us well over an hour as we stopped and stared, photographed, breathed in the intoxicating scent of the dense wood, and hugged the red giants. We even stopped and watched a wedding photographer take some bridal pics at one point on the trail. It was magical to stumble across a fairy princess in the forest! We could hardly believe our eyes! There was one tree with a knobby base that felt like it was at the heart of the trail. It was especially tall and especially ancient. I felt it had stories to tell. I leant in really close with my ear gently pressed to the fibrous husky outer bark so that I could hear the tree whispering to me. I heard stories of longevity, the close ties of beloved family within the grove that were all taken care of and nurtured in the most beautiful community of love and reciprocity. Most of all I heard the whispers telling me to trust nature, its indomitable spirit and its unerring will to survive. Jeff Probst himself would be impressed with these magical trees and their ability to outwit, outplay and outlast. Survivors to the impressive core. I left feeling like a load of worry had been taken off my shoulders after listening to the trees. The tribe had spoken.
We returned to the truck then continued through the thick Redwood forest until we came upon the delightful Smith River which we followed as it snaked its way through the trees. We stopped at the Hiouchi Visitor Center for cancellation stamps and a toilet break and then set off again crossing over the Smith River then back tracking, heading towards Howland Hill Road and the Stout Grove Trail. Winding our way through the giant trees, with the sun weaving rays of light down to the dirt road, was unbelievable. It was a drive I will never forget. Once we arrived and parked at Stout Trail, we set off under the shady canopy of the Giant Redwoods. As soon as we began the trail, a kind of hush came over us all as we moved intrepidly down the path. Some trees had been toppled and we got to see the surprisingly shallow root system that entangled and tethered each tree both to the earth and to its family of trees nearby. Once again we breathed in the glorious scent of the Redwoods. It reminded me a little of a cross between Pine and Yew trees, but honestly, how can you accurately describe a an intoxicating smell? The trail was again only a mile or so, but it took us a long time, as we continually just stopped and stared up at the giants, mouths open in awe and respect. Every now and again, we would stop and silently hug each other. It was a seriously spiritual experience. We lost ourselves in time. We completed the trail in awe and eventually circled back to the truck. We began the off-road journey along the rest of Howland Hill Road through the Grove of Titans and past the Boy Scout Tree, kicking up dust behind us. The road was so narrow and the trees and roots so close to the truck that we had to tuck in the wing mirrors. We all held on to our collective breaths and shrugged our shoulders in tight to make it through the tree gaps. It was a "clench your bottoms we're in for a bumpy ride" moment, a bit like Harry Potter's journey on the triple decker Knight Bus in the Prisoner of Azkaban. It was magical. I did manage to get some video footage and as impressive as it is, it still does not do the journey justice. This was a treasure of a day that will be ingrained in my mind and lodged in my heart forever. Unforgettable.
Kim took this incredible photo of me and Henry walking in amongst the giant Redwoods on the Stout Grove Trail in the Jedediah Smith State Park. What an experience!  After an unplanned detour due to fires, we headed to our eighth stop on our Grand Adventure, Crescent City, California. On the way there, Henry began reading the reviews of the site we had booked and learned there had been several thefts, break-ins and some vandalism reported. So, on the fly, we cancelled that site and booked a new site, while we driving towards Eureka. Very last minute! Thankfully we hit the jackpot with Lighthouse Cove RV Park in Crescent City. It was literally right on the beach and the views of the bay and the lighthouse were fab. Still in California, but right on the border with Oregon, our plan was to explore the Redwoods National and State Parks in the region.
 
Henry adored the site and spent most of his afternoons on the beach on his phone chatting with friends, picking up rocks and shells and watching the seals surf in the waves, so close to shore you could see their dark pool-like eyes, twitching whiskers and smiley faces. I am so glad we changed sites and stayed on the beach instead. We set off to explore the town of Crescent City, basically to find a launderette and a grocery store. It was all over very quickly as the town was tiny. The sea front road to the lighthouse was all torn up due to road work so we bypassed that and meandered around the streets. We found a Safeway and I spotted a tiny movie theater next door to it, which I stored in my memory as I knew the new Taylor Swift Eras Tour Movie was coming out soon. I am a total Swiftie!  There are three waterfalls on the McCloud River by the small town of McCloud, California; McCloud Lower Falls, McCloud Middle Falls and McCloud Upper Falls. After getting lost in the car park at the Lower Falls Trailhead which is almost ridiculously impossible to do, and then walking a good mile in the wrong direction, we finally made it back to where we started and found the trailhead to the Lower Falls, a couple of steps away. Kim and Henry wish for me to put in a disclaimer here... I solemnly swear that I was up to no good. It was me, Laura Barnes, and me alone, that led us in the wrong direction. Henry clearly said he could hear the waterfalls in the opposite direction. Kim clearly said he knew we were going in the wrong direction. Alrighty then. Mischief managed. At the Lower Falls the McCloud River tumbled through moss covered rocks, ferns, and overhanging trees in a beautiful picturesque-picnic setting, cascading into a deep pool of clear water where we could see the fish swimming in shoals. A fisherman stood on the banks and we saw him catch a flip-flopping rainbow trout that was as big as his forearm. Even from the distance we were standing we could see the trout's pink and green iridescent coloring and its silvery underbelly. The fisherman immediately packed up and left, happy with his catch. Henry had fun dodging all the bees as there must have been a hive nearby. He is paranoid about bees following him, so Kim is always tickling him on the back of his neck with a long stick and frequently makes buzzing noises. Family fun! Next stop, further upstream, was the Middle Falls. The cascading water from the narrowing river brought the drama! The mist created lots of rainbows in the air which added to the magical atmosphere. We hiked down to the bottom of the tall falls and we had fun playing in the pools and clambering over rocks to get a better view. Not so many bees at the Middle Falls but plenty of dragonflies! Lastly we stopped at McCloud Upper Falls, at 50 feet, the tallest of the three waterfalls. It was a hidden gem. With a single sleek drop, splashing into a horseshoe shaped pool, it felt private and intimate, a natural wonderland in the heart of the Shasta-Trinity Forest. We hiked down the river and around the rim through the fragrant pine forest, catching glimpses of the pristine wilderness beyond. Although these waterfalls are not protected in an official Californian State Park, they. absolutely should be. The three waterfalls were stunning!
Kim and Henry were happy to take a rest day, so I set off on my own to visit Muir Woods National Monument, about 30 minutes from our campsite. When I set off it was a clear and sunny day but by the time I got to Mill Valley, I found myself driving through thick, gray fog. Winding roads took me up, up, up and then down, down, down to the valley floor and Muir Woods, a preserved sanctuary of ancient redwood giants. Spanning 554 acres, Muir Woods is a living museum of ancient coastal redwoods that was first established in 1908 by the esteemed naturalist most commonly associated with the preservation of Yosemite, John Muir. His tireless advocacy and effective powers of political persuasion to protect enclaves of redwoods and sequoias from the Sierra Nevadas all the way to the Pacific coastline has been a gift for all future generations, one that I got to enjoy on my day out. It felt like a pilgrimage. I took my own sweet time to commune with the trees, listen to their prayers and bow down to them in reverence. Truth be told, they seemed pretty cheerful. They seemed much more concerned about the destruction of the human species than with their own destruction. They seemed at peace, serene, content. Quietly steadfast, enduring and resilient, much more so than us human beings. How can these noble trees possibly survive the relentless uptick in man made climate change, carbon emissions, pollution in the air and water banks, urbanization and other selfish actions of the humans sharing their regional ecosystem? The message I received was to soothe my immediate worries. I tuned into a deeper truth; the planet will survive, the redwoods will survive, however the survival of human life is much more uncertain and precarious. While I was praying for the redwoods, I was astonished to find that they were praying for me. The stoic redwood giants stand by and watch the gradual (inevitable?) self-destruction of mankind, just as they have done for millennia. We should listen to their wisdom.
We took a day trip up Highway One in California from Santa Cruz all the way to Half Moon Bay, about 50 miles in total, stopping along the route to enjoy the spectacular coastal views and to visit some highly recommended California State Parks. Our first stop was Wilder Ranch State Park where we were immediately taken under the wing of a lovely Miss-Marple-esque docent named Jean who was dressed in full Victorian garb and eager to share her knowledge of the park. She took us on a tour around the historic buildings. Originally settled by the Wilder family in 1871, the ranch was transformed into a flourishing dairy farm that played an important role in the developing dairy industry in the region. We visited the Wilder family home, a selection of outbuildings and a barn dating back to 1890 that was built without any nails or glue but instead by using a jigsaw style of woodwork where all the pieces slot together. Incredible. In the photographs, see if you can spot Henry pumping iron. The park offered views over sandy beaches, steep bluffs hanging over the Pacific and across lush forests and idyllic meadows. It was a haven for birds and a variety of deer. Lots of bikers were out exploring the trails.
Further up the coast we stopped at a wonderful hidden gem, Shark Fin Cove, sometimes known as Shark Tooth Beach. The huge rock emerging from the water like the dorsal fin of a huge shark is striking. Cue the "Jaws" music! We were excited to see so many wild birds; pelicans, cormorants, gulls. We glimpsed some seals cavorting in the cove too. The contrasting rugged mud cliffs and the pristine sandy beach was gorgeous and we could have stayed all day. 
Next stop was Año Nuevo State Park. Famed for its elephant seal colony and long sandy beaches, this was a fun stop where we just relaxed and basked in the summer sunshine on the beach. Once again we were joined by seals in the surf and so many squawking sea birds. We had the beach to ourselves. I just wandered down the shore line, beach combing, Kim found a Gandalf walking stick and Henry just sat and relaxed for awhile watching the seals.  
 Our next stop was Pigeon Point Light Station. A little museum atop the cliff, stunning coastal walks, clear views of the kelp forests, a playing field of jagged rocks for so many seals enjoying being tossed around in the crashing waves and of course the looming lighthouse. A harsh but beautiful landscape, perfect for rock pools and mini ecosystems offering a close up view of starfish, anemones, crabs, barnacles, mussels and other hidden creatures. It felt good being buffeted by the wind.
Continuing up the coastline we stopped for drinks and a snack in Davenport and took lots of pics on the way up to Half Moon Bay. Finally we stopped at Maverick's Beach, the famed Californian surfing beach as seen in the movie Chasing Mavericks, surprisingly starring Gerard Butler. Of course, there was not a wave in sight. Flat as a pancake out there! Here is some fine footage of the HUGE waves that have been filmed at Maverick's. 
 To finish the day we. had a late dinner at Sam's Chowder House. Delicious! Then home again, home again, jiggety jog.
We arrived early afternoon at the beautiful Santa Cruz Redwoods RV Park which backed on to the San Lorenzo River and the Henry Cowell Redwood State Park in Felton, California, about 7 miles uphill from Santa Cruz. Nestled amongst the impossibly tall and straight Redwoods, we set up camp. Waking up every morning to the towering Redwoods was both comforting and awe inspiring. I felt peaceful and protected. The smell of the trees was truly intoxicating. Bliss! We took our time to explore the Redwoods on our doorstep including a beautiful hike amongst an ancient grove of Redwoods at the Henry Cowell State Park, a morning trip on the Roaring Railroad, a narrow gauge steam engine through the trees, and on the edge of the state park we found the tallest covered bridge in America surrounded by the Redwoods, crossing the San Lorenzo River in Felton. 
The coastal redwoods are the tallest species of tree on the planet. They are immense. Their bark and heartwood is a reddish brown, almost husk like. Their trunks seem to grow up tall and straight for miles. They self prune lower branches so they look lean and leggy. The Giant Sequoias are like Shaquille O’Neal, tall, heavy, broad and with huge feet, whereas the Redwoods are more like Kobe Bryant tall, gloriously fit and healthy, rangy and true team players as they live in rooted communities where they live symbiotically sharing water and other resources to keep the entire grove healthy. They adore the coastal mists coming in off the Pacific and they take in as much water through their leaves as they do through their roots. Meeting a Redwood is like meeting Methuselah. The Redwoods can live for up to 2000 years, but more commonly live between 500 to 700 years. They are LIVING, first hand witnesses to the incredible human story that has unfolded since Jesus was alive. Mind blowing!!! Amongst the giant Redwoods, Henry loved finding banana slugs, the largest land slug in America and the second largest in the world. On our hikes, we spotted a good few of the bright yellow slugs, native to the cool, damp coastal forest floor, at the feet of the Redwood giants. One morning we got up early to walk the river from the camp site and had a little game of skimming stones. I was rubbish but Henry could make those stones jump! Being in the Redwoods was transcendent. It was a total sensory experience that I will never forget.
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AuthorLaura Barnes is a retired educator. Mostly she loves books, travels and mischief. She dabbles in writing. 
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