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I found this Airstream Trailer repurposed as a little shop full of homemade knick knacks parked right outside the legendary Bagdad Café between Ludlow and Barstow on Route 66 in San Bernardino County, California.
I thought it was gorgeous! Shaped like a little silver bullet, the Airstream Trailer never seems to age. The design of these little beauties is impeccable. Of course I was hoping Matthew McConaughey was hiding inside, as he is a famous Airstream enthusiast. Alas, he was not. Just a lovely couple, having a lovely time, in a lovely cloud of marijuana. Lovely.
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We drove a stretch of Route 66 starting at Roy's, passing through Ludlow, Newberry Springs, Barstow and finally Victorville, chasing trains and trucks on the I40 across the desert as they thundered towards the west coast of America. Roy's Gas Station, Motel and Café is an iconic stop on Route 66. Against the wilderness of the Mojave Desert, in a tiny ghost town called Amboy, in San Bernardino County in California, the gorgeous vintage neon sign advertising Roy's looms to beckon weary travelers to stop and find rest and refreshments on historic Route 66. I adore Roy's. We arrived, parked up and even in the hellish heat, we took the time to wander around the gas station forecourt, chatting with bikers and sightseers, mostly about the price of gas, but sharing our love of 'The Mother Road' and how cool it was to be at the legendary Roy's. I wandered around the motel and snapped a boat load of pictures until my trusty iPhone overheated. Then we retreated to the shop and the 50's café for souvenir stickers, postcards to send my Dad, and to buy a Coca Cola in a glass bottle, the best kind, from Mexico with real sugar. Popping the top off and taking a good long chug of the icy cold coke was a transcendent experience that is now forever scorched into my sensory memory. Yum! The motel and the sign itself are fine examples of Roadside Googie Architecture that was born in the 40's and continued into the 60's. This style of architecture retrospectively reflects futuristic themes based on the atomic and space ages of the period. Boomerangs, arrows, wings, stars, atomic bursts, flying saucers and parabolas, along with minimalistic designs, roofs tilting towards the heavens, walls of glass and bright colors all symbolize the idea of humanity moving ever forward with the aid of science, seeking out the next frontier, or as Star Trek puts it, "To explore strange new worlds...to boldly go where no man has gone before." As you can see from the pics, the motel's reception building is fashioned in this dashing style, as is the neon sign with its huge red arrow. I cannot say it enough, Roy's is truly iconic. Roy's was originally built as a gas and service station in 1938 by Roy Crowl and has seen many changes over the years, with various different owners. Before the I40 bypassed this particular section of Route 66 in 1972, Amboy was a popular stop for both road and train travelers. These days Roy's is a lonely landmark. The motel is closed down and no longer accepts guests. Lonely tumbleweeds blow across the road. Similarly, only the most intrepid of travelers blow in to town, going out of their way to visit Roy's. Even though Amboy has become a something of a ghost town, it is still beloved by Route 66 enthusiasts the world over. Fans of Amboy include the famous actors Harrison Ford and Anthony Hopkins who have flown into Roy's at the adjacent airfield on numerous occasions. The historic site has been used as a popular filming location for TV commercials, music videos and movies. Roy's has established itself as a cult figure in the last couple of decades. Deservedly. Did I mention it is iconic? Here are some links to Roy's most famous moments on screen. Click to view. 1. Enrique Iglesias music video for "Hero." 2. Clip from "The Hitcher" starring Rutger Hauer 3. Clip from "Kalifornia" starring Brad Pitt You can read more about Amboy and the history of Roy's Motel and cafe here. You can read more about my travels on Route 66 and enjoy photos from the Arizona stretch of the Mother Road here. It's a love story. Also in Amboy we saw a golden buddha that had been adorned with stickers and bedecked with various pieces of trash. Religious and sacrilegious. Beautiful and ugly. Weird and wonderful. Totally Route 66. The Amboy Post Office, a lone building across the road from Roy's, is a leftover service from when the small town was booming with traffic from the Route 66 Highway and the nearby railroad depot. About a kilometer (half a mile or so) away from Roy's sits the Amboy Crater, a dormant, cinder cone volcano surrounded by a lava field made up of lava lakes, collapsed lava tubes, sinks and spatter cones, spreading 70 square kilometers (27 square miles). Way too hot to hike in July, but still worth a stop. Spectacular!
In a cloud of dust kicked up by the dark Toyota 4Runner, my sister Caroline and her family arrived at our campsite, coming in from Las Vegas. It felt surreal. Eleven short days ago I was chatting with her in her kitchen back in the UK. Since then, I returned to the U.S. and we began our Grand Adventure Road Trip. She then set off with her family on her 50th birthday holiday to America. And so our two worlds collided in the Mojave Desert on a blazing hot Monday afternoon.
After a tour of the trailer and lots of hugs, we set off to cool down at the pool. We had a lazy, leisurely afternoon catching up. It was great to see Kim and Simon chatting and the hilarious banter between cousins. Henry loved seeing Will and Maddie who he had not seen for a number of years due to Covid, work and travel limitations. It was just the most blissful afternoon and I loved every minute of it. Later we met up for dinner at the Tropicale Restaurant in downtown Palm Springs. More chat and a delicious meal before retreating to bed. The next morning we met up again for a final goodbye and breakfast together at the Denny's diner just off the I10. We each shared three gratitudes, mostly around family, health and good fortune. We took a moment to send love to absent family members. Louise and Lynda love Denny's so we immediately thought of them, plus of course Mum and Dad are always on our minds. Waving goodbye was hard. They set off on the next phase of their holiday- Los Angeles and then Hawaii. Fantastic. I will never forget our lovely, unexpected, surreal rendezvous in the desert. Family is everything. We had an incredible day exploring Joshua Tree National Park in California.
The Joshua Tree, which grows in fiercely adverse conditions in the Mojave Desert in Southern California, is found off the beaten track. The spiky yuccas are sprawled across the desert but found in greater numbers inside the National Park. The tree was named by early Mormon settlers, after the Old Testament prophet Joshua, as its branches reminded them of Joshua raising his arms to pray. The trees themselves have an air of otherworldly mystery about them as they grow in solitude, twisting and writhing, gasping for survival in the wilderness. At night they are silhouetted against the vast deep purple skies standing like sentries of the galaxy, alien creatures with a hidden history. Dr. Seuss of "Cat in the Hat" fame used the Joshua Tree as inspiration for his colorful Truffula trees in The Lorax. From a distance the trees may look fluffy but up close they are spiky. We got our obligatory National Park passport cancellation stamps at the Visitor Center and then set off to explore. As well as the beautifully twisty and spiky Joshua Trees, we saw a spooky granite rock formation called Skull Rock and at the Keys Lookout we got a panoramic view of the Coachella Valley, the Salton Sea and the San Andreas Fault. See if you can spot me with the tallest tree in the park (41 feet tall) and the little grasshopper I found on a Teddy Bear Cholla. Of course I have to mention U2’s album, "The Joshua Tree." The album is brilliant, fierce and I love Bono's raspy intensity in "I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For." His vocals reflect the desolation of this timeless landscape and the spiritual triumph of this beautiful, steadfast solitary tree, itself apparently lost in the vastness of the Mojave Desert. We listened on repeat all day! Kim was sick of it! |
AuthorLaura Barnes is a retired educator. Mostly she loves books, travels and mischief. She dabbles in writing. Archives
March 2025
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