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After a hair raising trip down the mountain from Yosemite, we headed to Petaluma KOA, about 40 minutes North of San Francisco in Marin County. It was our 6th stop on our Family Grand Adventure. Once we arrived and set up the trailer, I thought I'd share a quick trailer tour.
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Kim's Chicken Curry is a masterpiece.
Made from scratch it is fragrant and delicious, a real family favorite. Making and eating homemade meals in the trailer is a joy! Kim and I continued our "Date Day" driving Highway One along the Big Sur Coastline in central California. The early mist and drizzle of the day had cleared and we had a spectacular afternoon of sunshine and blue skies. It is not surprising that many car manufacturers film their commercials along this iconic stretch of coastline road. This roughly 90 mile enclave of Highway One is a sanctuary for steep cliffs, ancient redwood forests, dramatic, rugged coastal panoramas and stunning secluded beaches. Its pristine wilderness and innate mystique makes it a haven for hikers, bohemian writers and poets, artists and adventurers, photographers and those seeking inspiration from the stunning beauty of the land and ocean crashing together in consummate bliss. It's a magical place. The best part of the day was when we stopped for photos at a beautiful overlook. Totally unexpectedly and literally out of the blue, a humpback whale leaped out of the ocean in a full breach, making the most enormous splash as it broadsided the water in a loud smackdown. We then watched it move steadily northwards, it's fluked tail waving at us, misty sprays of breath snorting from its blowhole like steam from a kettle, and the delightful humping over of the giant leviathan as it dipped and rose in rhythmic waves as it leisurely moved away from us. This is not my video, but it illustrates the big splash of a breaching humpback! We stopped at Rocky Creek Bridge and then again at Bixby Bridge, the iconic bridge synonymous with Big Sur and one of the tallest single span concrete bridges in the world. By now the cloudless light blue skies, the deep Monterey blue ocean and the impossibly turquoise shoreline allowed us to take some fab photos. The light was amazing. Next we travelled on to McWay Falls nestled within Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. It is a coastal waterfall plunging about 80 feet in a single drop to the pristine, sandy, crescent shape beach below. The beach itself is inaccessible so we rambled out to the viewpoint on the Overlook Trail to watch the falls. We were spellbound by its beauty. The sound of the falls and the gentle lapping of the waves breaking on the shore was mesmerizing. The turquoise blue of the water reminded me a little of Havasu Falls in the Grand Canyon. Very different energy though. Havasu Falls is inland and had a private, intimate, ancient ancestral feel to it, whereas the McWay Falls, tipping into the ocean had a wildly youthful, exhilarating, expansive vibe. One gently takes your breath away, one boldly whips your breath away. Both breathtaking. As it was late in the day and the sun was nearly down, we skipped a visit to Nepenthe and headed back to the trailer to see Henry. When we got home, we flopped into bed at the end of the most memorable day of our Grand Adventure so far. We slept well, snuggling, sinking into faraway dreams of humpback whales singing lullabies, arched bridges in the sky that traversed the clouds, and water so clear and blue and deep that the simple truths of the entire universe seeped effortlessly in our bones.
What a day! Henry decided he wanted a day to himself so Kim and I set off on a "Date Day." Hand in hand we headed south on the US 101, the Pacific Coast Highway, towards the Monterey peninsula and Pebble Beach to drive the winding 17-Mile drive, a private road tracing the rugged Pacific coastline, a microcosm of the region's natural beauty. We stopped at a roadside fruit stall on the way, somewhere near Moss Landing, for a quick snack of peaches and cherries that were deliciously sweet and juicy. We also picked up some local sage and wildflowers raw honey and some huge avocados, jalapenos, ripe tomatoes and a big bunch of cilantro to make a salsa for a light dinner. As I write this now, I can tell you that the honey with whiskey and hot water is THE BEST thing I have drunk since beginning the trip! Sooooo gooooood! I digress. Back to the 17-Mile Drive... We paid a small fee to enter the guarded entrance and set off towards the beach. It was an overcast day and it began to drizzle. This was such a welcome change after weeks and weeks of sunshine and beating hot days that we welcomed the weather by opening the truck windows and weaving our hands through the rain. We reached the beach and it was cool and walkable, so with hoods up, we slowly combed the shoreline. Pelicans sitting on top of the seaweed-bedraggled craggy rocks jutting out of the blue-green ocean, the fine sandy beaches rimmed with smooth grey pebbles and driftwood that seemed to be artistically placed for the most pleasing effect, waves gently breaking in a serene rhythm, created a landscape worthy of an artist's dream. It felt surprisingly wild and yet cultivated at the same time. We made some iconic stops along the route. The Lone Cypress, a withered tree clinging for dear life to a granite outcrop rising from the ocean, has become a symbol for strength and resilience, especially for golfers who live and play in the Pebble Beach area. The dignified solitude of the brave little tree, all alone, withstanding the weather and erosion was heartwarming. You couldn't help but root for the little fellow. We also saw Bird Rock, a haven for a wide variety of bird species and Seal Rock, shaped like a seal on the most beautiful, tranquil beach. We drove through Spanish Bay that offered a taste of an authentic Scottish links-style golf course and then onto the world famous Pebble Beach Golf Links Course.
Opened in 1919 this world famous golf course has hosted numerous prestigious golf tournaments including the U.S. Open multiple times. It is a breathtaking setting with the fairways and greens molded to the coastline with waves relentlessly crashing against the rocks. Kim and I watched some amateur golfers play the 18th hole in front of the clubhouse and cheered riotously when they made their final putts. They waved and grinned back at us, clearly enjoying the appreciation. We walked around a small parade of shops, dodged the golf carts and had a coffee to warm us up then continued up the coast to Big Sur. We ventured down to Cannery Row, of John Steinbeck fame, in Monterey to seek out the world famous Monterey Bay Aquarium.
Henry and I love aquariums and as a keen fisherman, Kim is always happy to learn more about fish varieties and the ever changing environment they need to survive and flourish. Monterey Bay Aquarium is the very best aquarium we have ever visited. Perched on the picturesque shores of California's Monterey Bay, it is a global leader in ocean conservation. It even featured in the movie "Finding Dory" where it was depicted as the Monterey Marine Life Institute. Since opening in 1984, it has established itself as a well respected institution, a beacon of marine education and research that captivates visitors and fosters a deep sense of connection with marine plants and animals in a modern, spacious, spectacularly beautiful facility that feels like a world class art exhibition. In particular, the ethereal boneless beauty of the varieties of jelly fish; the Moon jellies with silvery pulsating bodies, the rich orange Pacific Sea Nettle jellies with impossibly long ribbons and locks floating elegantly behind and underneath them, casting secret spells, the illumined teeny tiny Bell jellies like little Edison light bulbs. The jellies become startling and utterly mesmerizing against the Monterey Blue background canvases in rounded tanks that make you feel as though you are peering through the windows of a submarine while it is trolling the depths of the ocean. During the Covid lockdown, Kim and I would pull up the live feed from the Monterey Bay Aquarium Jelly Web Cam on the telly as we found it to be soul soothing. You can check it out here. Of course we found Nemo and Dory. We loved the bobbing penguins, the antics of the puffins and the adorable sea otters that we could see inside the Aquarium and also right outside in the Bay. The fairy tale kelp forest exhibit, colorful coral reefs and the variety of fish from enormous sharks and rays to the almost invisible plankton were all captivating in the way they emphatically declared the vibrancy of marine life. My favorite of the day was the most magnificent giant octopus who seemed to be feeling his way towards our hearts. Wow! The Monterey Bay Aquarium once again inspired me to be a champion of the ocean and to renew our family efforts to reduce plastic and pollution to protect the wonders of the worlds oceans. Our visit to Santa Cruz serendipitously coincided with the Monterey Car Show, about 40 minutes south of our campsite.
Henry googled the hotspots for the show, honed in on the Porsche exhibit, and off we went excitedly spotting Ferraris, Lambos and McClarens screaming past us on the pacific Coast Highway. I am not a huge car fan like Henry, but I do appreciate beautiful things. Those Porsches were timeless beauties; chic, classy, perfectly formed and meticulously maintained. We stopped at Moss Landing on the way home for yet more clam chowder in yet another sourdough bread bowl after getting stuck in some crazy traffic and nearly reversing into a Ferrari! What a fantastic day out! Henry and I spent an awesome morning ziplining through the towering Redwoods at Mount Hermon Adventures.
Altogether we shuffled across two long, wooden suspension bridges and zipped across 6 lines to platforms suspended 100 feet high up in the canopy of the forest. Sunlight filtered through the treetops in rays of tiny dancing dust motes giving the forest an ethereal, magical glow. Below us the gentle creek babbled its way through the reddish trees, the delicate ferns and the sweet smelling sorrel. We zipped along, bringing up our feet, planking, singing, dancing, waving and ballyhooing in joy as we whizzed down the lines. Henry and I couldn't stop giggling at the fun of it all. We made friends with a couple from the Bay Area. Henry said I missed some good bits because of my "yappin'." Ha! Exhilarating, adrenaline-inducing fun! It was lovely to catch up with my dear soul sister, Heather. She lives ever so close by and we could not pass up the opportunity to meet for a hug. We chatted by the river, under the redwoods at the campsite and later we had a delicious family dinner together. I wanted to hear all about her family and of course all the details on the epic Taylor Swift Eras Tour as well as all her recent concert news, (she's a music maven). She brought gifts as a thank you for our recent adventures in England; a fab California State Park Pass and a folklore friendship bracelet. Both already beloved.
I forgot to take an "ussie" (Ted Lasso reference!) of us both, so here is a pic from when we were in Zion. Blissful evening. Love you Heather xxx I have been to The Mystery Spot before with my dearest girlfriends when we visited the area last year.
Together we experienced the bewildering and beguiling tourist hot spot that seemed to defy the laws of physics. Promoted as a mysterious, unearthly anomaly with tongue-in-cheek speculation that it is the work of extra terrestrials engaged in magnetic manipulation through out of this world portals and vortexes. Discombobulating for sure!. I was excited to share it with Kim and Henry as the experience shakes up the trust you have in science and your senses, reminding you that it is healthy to engage in critical thinking. The Mystery Spot itself is nestled in the Redwood forests on the outskirts of Santa Cruz, where a tilted cabin appears to defy gravitational laws as it slides down the hill while at the same time water appears to flow uphill in a way that would baffle Sir Isaac Newton himself. A Mystery Spot for sure. As you enter the cabin, you can lean at impossible angles, the heights of people appear to be distorted and a dead heavy ball on a plumb line seems to dangle oddly, not at all perpendicular as it should do, all "proof" that The Mystery Spot mysteriously defies gravity. Henry loved it and was thoroughly engaged by the narrative given by the hilarious, absent minded student guide who was clearly high as a kite and kept losing the threads of his thoughts. Henry volunteered for the exercises that provided the "proof" of the mystery, showing how people's height was distorted at this unique spot. Kim was less enthusiastic. Let's just say there was some eye rolling involved. I was having a blast watching the two of them! On the way out we stopped to watch the banana slugs as they made their slimy trails through the ferns. Overall, a thoroughly entertaining afternoon! We took a day trip up Highway One in California from Santa Cruz all the way to Half Moon Bay, about 50 miles in total, stopping along the route to enjoy the spectacular coastal views and to visit some highly recommended California State Parks. Our first stop was Wilder Ranch State Park where we were immediately taken under the wing of a lovely Miss-Marple-esque docent named Jean who was dressed in full Victorian garb and eager to share her knowledge of the park. She took us on a tour around the historic buildings. Originally settled by the Wilder family in 1871, the ranch was transformed into a flourishing dairy farm that played an important role in the developing dairy industry in the region. We visited the Wilder family home, a selection of outbuildings and a barn dating back to 1890 that was built without any nails or glue but instead by using a jigsaw style of woodwork where all the pieces slot together. Incredible. In the photographs, see if you can spot Henry pumping iron. The park offered views over sandy beaches, steep bluffs hanging over the Pacific and across lush forests and idyllic meadows. It was a haven for birds and a variety of deer. Lots of bikers were out exploring the trails. Further up the coast we stopped at a wonderful hidden gem, Shark Fin Cove, sometimes known as Shark Tooth Beach. The huge rock emerging from the water like the dorsal fin of a huge shark is striking. Cue the "Jaws" music! We were excited to see so many wild birds; pelicans, cormorants, gulls. We glimpsed some seals cavorting in the cove too. The contrasting rugged mud cliffs and the pristine sandy beach was gorgeous and we could have stayed all day. Next stop was Año Nuevo State Park. Famed for its elephant seal colony and long sandy beaches, this was a fun stop where we just relaxed and basked in the summer sunshine on the beach. Once again we were joined by seals in the surf and so many squawking sea birds. We had the beach to ourselves. I just wandered down the shore line, beach combing, Kim found a Gandalf walking stick and Henry just sat and relaxed for awhile watching the seals. Our next stop was Pigeon Point Light Station. A little museum atop the cliff, stunning coastal walks, clear views of the kelp forests, a playing field of jagged rocks for so many seals enjoying being tossed around in the crashing waves and of course the looming lighthouse. A harsh but beautiful landscape, perfect for rock pools and mini ecosystems offering a close up view of starfish, anemones, crabs, barnacles, mussels and other hidden creatures. It felt good being buffeted by the wind. Continuing up the coastline we stopped for drinks and a snack in Davenport and took lots of pics on the way up to Half Moon Bay. Finally we stopped at Maverick's Beach, the famed Californian surfing beach as seen in the movie Chasing Mavericks, surprisingly starring Gerard Butler. Of course, there was not a wave in sight. Flat as a pancake out there! Here is some fine footage of the HUGE waves that have been filmed at Maverick's. To finish the day we. had a late dinner at Sam's Chowder House. Delicious! Then home again, home again, jiggety jog.
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AuthorLaura Barnes is a retired educator. Mostly she loves books, travels and mischief. She dabbles in writing. Archives
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